How to Ski Roca Jack: Portillo’s Legendary Double Black Diamond Guide

There is a specific moment, just before the iron bar of the Va-et-Vient lift pushes you toward the mountain's verticality, where the Andean air feels different. It’s not just the cold at 10,000 feet; it’s the electricity of Roca Jack.

I’ve skied the fire-colored walls of the Dolomites, drowned in Hokkaido’s bottomless powder, and challenged the tight couloirs of Chamonix. But Portillo has something you won’t find on a map: it has a soul. And the heart of that soul beats loudest at Roca Jack. It isn’t just a run; it’s a rite of passage, a declaration of intent, and—if not treated with respect—a lesson in humility you’ll remember every time your knees ache in the winter.

1. The Art of the Ascent: The Va-et-Vient

To understand Roca Jack, you must first understand how to get there. Forget heated four-pack chairs. Here, the Va-et-Vient rules—"slingshot" lifts designed by Jean Pomagalski exclusively for this terrain. It’s a choreography of cables and anchors that catapults you up the mountain. If it’s your first time, you’ll feel that tug in your quads: a warning that the game has begun.

At the summit, the world stops. To one side, the iconic yellow hotel looks like a toy lost in the vastness; to the other, the Laguna del Inca, a blue so deep it feels surreal. Before you, the towering shadow of Aconcagua watches your every move. You are in Double Black Diamond territory. Here, the mountain does not forgive arrogance, but it rewards technique with a heavy hand.

2. Anatomy of the Rock

Skiing Roca Jack is a sensory experience. It is a steep off-piste face that demands peak physical condition. We are talking about un-groomed terrain where nature is the only architect. There are no machines to smooth the way.

The key to a glorious run is the powder. When Portillo receives that gift from the heavens, Roca Jack becomes a sea of white clouds. But beware: if the wind has created ice crusts or if it’s been too long since the last storm, the scene shifts from idyllic to lethal in seconds. The risk of avalanches and serious injury is real.

Old School Rule: If you have doubts about your level before dropping in, you already have your answer. Don’t do it.

3. The Survival Manual: "Don’t Die in the Attempt"

After decades of traveling to ski resorts, I’ve learned the most important piece of gear isn’t a pair of 110mm-waist skis (though you’ll need them to float here)—it’s humility.

• The Guide is Your Life Insurance: It doesn't matter if you’ve skied Aspen’s toughest chutes. Roca Jack has secrets, terrain traps, and hidden lines. Hiring a Portillo instructor or a local guide isn’t a sign of weakness; it’s the mark of a smart skier. They know where the snow stays cold and where it’s safe to turn.

• The Mountain Oracles: The Ski Patrol are the local gods. Before you drop, check the mountain office. Ask. Listen. If they say "not today," the discussion is over. The mountain will be there tomorrow; you want to be there too.

• Technique Over Speed: In this terrain, it’s easy to lose control. My veteran advice: ski conservatively. Keep a centered stance, let the skis work, and don’t try to show off with absurd speeds. Elegance here is measured in flow, not the stopwatch.

• Segment the Challenge: Don’t try to bomb the whole face in one go. Stop in safer sections, catch your breath, let the lactic acid dissipate, and study your next line.

4. Beyond the Jack: La Travesía

If you master Roca Jack and your lungs are still screaming for more, the top of the lift offers a gateway to La Travesía. This is the "Holy Grail" for experts—a fan of challenging pitches and steep descents that make you feel like you’re alone at the end of the world.

Warning: La Travesía requires impeccable orientation. Getting lost or entering a dead-end couloir is a mistake you don't want to make. A guide is the difference between an epic story at the bar and a rescue call.

The Reward

Roca Jack isn’t for everyone, and that is part of its mystique. At the end of the day, sitting on the terrace of Hotel Portillo with a Pisco Sour in hand, you’ll look up at that immense white wall. You’ll smile with the satisfaction of someone who has danced with a giant and walked away unscathed.