Portillo: My Slice of the Chilean Andes (A Full Terrain Review) | Skiing Portillo

I had never felt such anticipation for a mountain before arriving. After my days in Bariloche at Cerro Catedral, I knew South America had surprises in store. And Portillo, Chile, was next. It isn't just a ski resort; it is a test—a territory of challenges, honest snow, and slopes that demand concentration, courage, and respect.

From the moment you hit the international highway toward the Andes, the excitement builds. The air turns dry, the range becomes vertical, and when the yellow hotel finally appears in front of the Laguna del Inca, you know you've reached a singular place. The snow shines under the sun, the peaks cut the sky, and absolute silence wraps around everything. There are no artificial distractions here: this is real mountain.

The Warm-Up: Beyond the Beginner Patch

For an experienced skier, the beginner terrain in Portillo is painfully limited—a glorified learning patch for absolute first-timers. For those of us who have lived on snow for years, the serious terrain starts higher up.

My real adventure began at Escuela 1 and Escuela 2, intermediate runs that serve as the perfect warm-up.

• Escuela 1 is generous, allowing you to find your rhythm after the first chair.

• Escuela 2 kicks the pitch up a notch, forcing you to concentrate on your turn shape. Here, the snow changes quickly with the sun and wind; reading the surface becomes part of the day's technique.

I didn't take long to feel that Portillo wasn't a place to "ski just to pass the time," but to ski with intention and precision.

The Cruisers: Juncalillo and Juncal

Once you move past the warm-up, the map opens up. Juncalillo is a favorite for those who return year after year. It’s an extensive Blue run, fluid and long, inviting you to play with your turn radius. Its length lets you find a stable cadence, and it even crosses over the international highway tunnels—a detail that always sparks smiles and comments among riders.

Juncal, on the other hand, offers a wider berth with a more constant pitch. Here, the strategy isn't just speed, but discovering your flow as the day progresses. When the wind has been gentle, the snow on Juncal offers that firm, grippy texture that lets you carve without fear, feeling your edges eat up the snow with pleasure.

The Technical Challenge: Garganta & The Plateau

Then you meet the runs that show the resort's true character. Garganta (The Throat) is one of those descents that makes you keep your guard up. Narrow and technical, with sections that force decisive edge control, Garganta is a mix of pure technique and controlled adrenaline. It’s not about chasing speed; it’s about moving fluidly, anticipating the terrain, and maintaining rhythm without hesitation.

I also loved exploring the Plateau sector early in the morning, hitting runs like Los Zorros, El Estadio, and Davi’s Run. These combine intermediate terrain with subtle technical challenges. They don’t forgive distractions, but they don’t intimidate either—they push you to ski with refined technique.

The Big League: Roca Jack & La Travesía

If there is one area that defines Portillo’s bold character, it is undoubtedly Roca Jack. The legendary "slingshot" lift (Va-et-Vient) takes you to serious alpine terrain, where snow conditions can shift from powder to ice to wind-pack in seconds. The main run here is a demanding Black Diamond with panoramic views that take your breath away. You don't ski slow here: every turn demands absolute focus.

From the top of Roca Jack, when conditions allow, you access La Travesía. This descent is less defined on the official map but extremely challenging. La Travesía is not for casual skiers; it is steep, often unmarked terrain where virgin snow awaits—but only if you know what you're doing. For me, La Travesía was one of the most intense lines I’ve ever skied: technical, demanding, and absolutely addictive.

The Adventure Line: Lake Run

One of the most memorable descents is Lake Run. This trail flows down toward the Laguna del Inca. In deep winter, when the lagoon is frozen solid, some brave skiers even venture across the ice. It’s a unique experience you won’t find just anywhere in the world: skiing straight toward a frozen lake in the middle of an Andean valley.

Strategic Pauses: Tío Bob’s

Between laps, strategic pauses are essential. Heading up to Tío Bob’s restaurant is a tradition. It only opens during the day, and its simplicity is its charm. Here, you sit, warm up, eat something hearty, and talk strategy with other skiers. Eating up there, overlooking the slopes you just conquered and the ones still waiting, gives you a perspective no base lodge can offer.

The gastronomy in Portillo—while not cheap—is designed for bodies that have worked the mountain all day. Hot dishes, well-selected Chilean wine, and good coffee feel like a mandatory ritual. It’s not haute cuisine, but it is authentic, honest, and deeply satisfying.

Nightlife: Community & Fire

When the lifts close, Portillo doesn't shut down. The torchlight parades are a hypnotic tradition where the community unites to celebrate the mountain. Inside the hotel, the bars come alive. This is where you meet the real ski community: instructors with hundreds of laps, Olympic athletes training in their off-season, and solo travelers with incredible stories.

Whether it’s a barbecue outside discussing the "line of the day" or a quiet wine by the fireplace, the vibe is genuine. Even the disco, with its mix of Latin rhythms and classics, isn't about luxury—it’s about celebrating that we are all here, together, in the middle of nowhere.

The Verdict

Portillo isn't a mega-resort like those in North America or Europe. It doesn't have endless mileage. But what it offers is pure quality. From the technical curves of Garganta to the adrenaline of Roca Jack; from the flow of Juncalillo to the off-piste potential of La Travesía.

It’s skiing where the mountain demands both technique and humility. It teaches you to anticipate, to respect the snow, and to enjoy both the easy and the hard. Here, you learn to ski the mountain, rather than just skiing a map.

Portillo isn't perfect. It doesn't offer absolute comfort or extensive beginner runs. But for those of us seeking challenge, beauty, authenticity, and a mountain that returns your dignity with every descent, it is undoubtedly one of the most memorable places on the planet to clip into your skis.